Cuihu, a park in the center of Kunming, is known to everyone in Kunming. Inside, there are pavilions, pavilions, Qushui corridors, tree shadow robes, and waves of light. It is very rare to see such a good place among the heavy traffic of high-rise buildings. Mr. Wang Zengqi once said in "the Heart of Cuihu Lake": there are lakes in the city, which is rare in China and the world.
Cui Lake was formerly known as Jiulong Pool. The people of the Qing Dynasty Ni Yue "Dianyun over the years" Jiuquan out, converge into a pool, hence the name Jiulong Chi. Kowloon Pool is still there, there is no Jiuquan gushing out, fear of loss, built into a separate pool. Cuihu also has an old name: Caihaizi. I think it was that the Qing Dynasty was thorough, the vegetable garden occupied half of it, and there were many families growing vegetables around. In the early days, the red drought outside Kunming was inexhaustible, and the natives planted a swamp of thousand-leaf lotus in the middle. The river that comes out of the water is called the Sima River. In the early Ming Dynasty, Fu Youde, Lanyu and Mu Ying led troops into Yunnan, where they planted willow herding horses and prepared to build a park in 1919. It was renamed Cuihu because of its ten mu lotus fish world and the lake and mountain scenery of half the city's willow towers. The name is still in use to this day.
Cuihu is green all the year round. Especially in the rainy season. The vegetation is luxuriant, and the green trees of the green lake cover almost all the pavilions and pavilions. Looking from above, there is only a piece of green trees and clear water, at this time, there is only one word Cui. Wang Zengqi once again exclaimed: the name of Cuihu is really good!
In the 1930s and 1940s, the urban area was small, and Cuihu was located in the northwest suburb of the city, so there were not many people from Kunming who specially came to visit Cuihu, and most of them just crossed here. (Wang Zengqi's "Heart Shadow of Cuihu Lake") you can imagine how quiet and clear Cuihu Lake was at that time.
With the rapid expansion of the city, the urban area is nearly ten times larger than before the reform and opening up. Cuihu, which was originally in the northwest suburb of Kunming, is now located in the center of the city. Cuihu has actually become a big street garden. The natural ecology has also undergone rapid changes. The original source of groundwater is nine strands of groundwater, but now it is mainly supplied by the Panlong River, and the Sima River, which leads to Dianchi Lake, no longer exists and has become a busy street. However, if there is such a good place in the downtown center, it will naturally become the city's first choice for passers-by from north to south and tourists from inside and outside the province to take shortcuts, tours, song and dance fitness. As a result, the quiet Cuihu Lake has gradually become the noisiest place in the city. My family lives by Cuihu Lake. It used to be a good blessing, but now it is easy to suffer. From more than five o'clock in the morning to 11:00 in the evening, there is rarely a moment of silence.
First, a veteran, perhaps a veteran of the War to resist US aggression and Aid Korea, still had the heroic feelings of that year, singing valiantly and arrogantly by the Cuihu Lake before dawn, crossing the Yalu River as if he were still walking at the pace of a soldier and walking majestically under my window. From then on, there must be a middle-aged strong man who roars to heaven and says, "O Roar!" This male is full of qi, and his vital capacity is as large as that roared out by a loudspeaker, which has a very strong penetration and shock power. After his roar, I believe there is no one who will not be frightened. After him, this kind of roar gradually increased, male and female ups and downs, both men and women, Cuihu became a place for a hundred schools of thought to contend, because it is said that this roar can keep fit and so on. After eight o'clock, the singing and dancing fitness army officially entered the park. They were in small groups, with their own stereos, each occupying one side. In a garden called Shuiyuexuan, with an area of less than one mu, there were five or six people singing, dancing and doing morning exercises. The music played reverberated loudly, and the people next to them could no longer tell who was who. Elsewhere, they may grab land and blame each other, but Kunming people can live in peace. No offense to each other, and can accurately according to the rhythm of their own audio broadcast, twist their buttocks and swing their waist, dance as if no one else is there, and do it, which is a bright spot of Kunming, which is as warm as Kunming's climate. The people of Kunming, which are playful but not aggressive, lively but not fierce, are fully displayed in the noisy Cuihu.
There is also a small pavilion, a corner of a small bar, a solo or a cappella with a flute or an erhu accompaniment. Even if the voice is ridiculously dumb and the sharp teeth are sore, the singer enjoys himself. There are women who solemnly put on costumes and heavy makeup, or in small groups, or fight alone, turn on the stereo, dance and sing if you want to marry, don't marry someone else, and you don't care about the feelings of the audience or the audience. They sing to themselves and dance to themselves. The left-foot dance of the Yi people is the most powerful. Since then, dozens of people have formed a large circle, playing more than a dozen Yueqin and three strings, dancing for hours without a break, and it will not be a problem to stay up all night.
As the singing and dancing crowd enters the park, there are more and more tourists and passers-by. It is no exaggeration to describe it with crucian carp crossing the river. Roadsides, under trees, selling small jewelry handicrafts, selling pastry-flavored snacks, and even bidding for Qilu famous calligraphy and painting have also opened one after another, and Cuihu has become a big shopping mall after 10 o'clock.
The sidewalk around Cuihu is also very lively. There are several small bands gathered here. There are small folk bands of old men, playing lanterns and Yunnan folk songs, magnificent brass bands, playing "March of the people's Liberation Army" and "singing to the Motherland". There is also an orchestra with well-matched high, middle and low orchestral instruments, which seems to be made up of retirees from professional performing groups. Sometimes you can hear a good mezzo-soprano, imitating Guan Mucun's "the grapes of Turpan are ripe", and the audience is the most.
This is the present Cuihu Lake. From after five o'clock in the morning to 11:00 at midnight. After that, I always thought that it had calmed down. No, there was a singer who still turned on the stereo and sang the most popular "Little Apple": you are my little apple, and I can't love you too much.
Not every day, at least most of the time. Look around Cuihu now, there are dozens of high-rise buildings, Cuihu has been surrounded. Poor Cuihu has become a small bonsai. Imagine that every day after dinner, as long as one person comes out from behind each window of each tall building to go for a walk in Cuihu, how many people will enter Cuihu in dozens of high-rise buildings? Not to mention migrant workers, tourists, passers-by, can Cuihu Lake be noisy day and night? Today's Cuihu is no longer a good place for a piece of pastoral scenery like Liulin and horses. Singing and dancing across the sky during the day, neon lights twinkle at night, and when the pressure is low, the sky over Cuihu is still gray, and this green and dusty city also shows the terrible figure of haze in Beijing. Sound pollution, light pollution and air pollution Cuihu have paid the price for us.
I want to try my best to find the stillness of Wang Zengqi's "the Heart of Cuihu Lake" in the 1930s and 1940s. One rainy night, I read that when I walked along the road in the lake at night, I would suddenly splash a huge red fish from the middle of the lake, startling you. Can you still find that atmosphere in Cuihu today? When it was drizzling, Cuihu Lake was rarely seen and sang. I immediately held up an umbrella and decided to walk through the green lake alone in the rain, looking for a little bit of the past. Cross the embankment of Cuihu Lake and the arch bridge on the embankment, listen to the rustling trees in the drizzle, and see the shadowy pavilions and pavilions left over a hundred years ago. The drizzle fish came out and splashed, and sure enough, a big fish jumped up in the lake. All of a sudden, I seemed to be back in the Shadow of the Green Lake, and my heart was full of surprise. However, when the fish fell into the water, the lake was filled with colorful neon lights. That kind of treacherous, that kind of change makes me understand: the fish is no longer the big red fish of Wang Zengqi, what is left by Cuihu is only the heart shadow. Tomorrow will be another noisy day for this little bonsai song and dance.
Noise is a kind of vitality, serenity is an antiquity. Can you keep a little old stillness in the noisy vitality? This should be possible. The deceased is like Sifu, which I have always dreamed of.
(Zhang Chang is a writer of the Bai nationality)
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